What I Reach for When Inflamed Acne Needs a Calming Reset

If you’ve dealt with inflamed acne, you know how tricky it can be to find products that help without making things worse. At my NYC clinic, I treat acne-prone skin every day—often in clients who are also navigating sensitivity, redness, or post-inflammatory flares.

One of the biggest things I’ve learned over the years is that calming the skin is just as important as clearing it. Inflamed acne thrives in an environment where the skin barrier is compromised. When we focus on healing—not just drying out pimples—results last longer, and the skin actually looks healthier overall.

That’s why I often reach for Anfisa An-Dew when I’m helping a client calm and reset acne-prone skin.

Why Inflammation Matters in Acne

Inflammation drives the worst parts of acne—redness, swelling, pain, and post-breakout pigmentation. While traditional acne treatments often target bacteria or oil, they don’t always address what’s happening under the breakout.

When the skin barrier is disrupted—due to over-cleansing, harsh actives, or stress—acne can worsen. That’s why calming, hydrating support is essential in any protocol I build for inflamed acne.

Ingredient Deep Dive: Azelaic Acid, Hexylresorcinol, Gluconolactone

Azelaic Acid:
One of the most underrated ingredients for brightening. Azelaic acid helps fade dark spots, even out tone, and reduce redness—all while being extremely well-tolerated, even by acne-prone or rosacea-prone skin. It gently resurfaces without causing flaking or irritation, which makes it perfect for my clients who want glow without downtime.

Hexylresorcinol:
This brightening ingredient targets tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in melanin production. That means it helps reduce the appearance of pigmentation and uneven tone—great for clients dealing with lingering post-acne marks or sun damage. I love that it works on clarity without being overly aggressive.

Gluconolactone (PHA):
This polyhydroxy acid provides gentle exfoliation and deep hydration at the same time. Because it has a larger molecular structure than AHAs, it exfoliates more slowly—making it a go-to in my clinic for sensitive or reactive skin types who still want smoother texture.

How I Use Anfisa An-Dew for Inflamed Acne

Here’s how I incorporate Anfisa An-Dew in acne routines at the clinic:

Apply after cleansing and before spot treatments or moisturizers — It creates a calming, hydrating base that preps the skin for active ingredients to follow.
Use morning and night — It’s lightweight, layers beautifully under SPF, and helps regulate inflammation throughout the day.
Pair with a gentle exfoliant (1–2x/week) — Once skin is calm, I’ll layer this with a mandelic acid-based exfoliant to help decongest without triggering more irritation.
Don’t skip it if you’re oily — Clients often think serums are too much for oily or acne-prone skin. But balancing oil starts with hydration—and this formula won’t clog or overwhelm.

Clinic Case Study: Red, Inflamed Cheeks & Chin

A recent client came in with red, inflamed breakouts focused around the mouth and lower cheeks—likely a mix of hormonal acne and overuse of harsh exfoliants. We pulled back on all stripping products and simplified her routine to just three steps: a barrier-supporting cleanser, Anfisa An-Dew, and a targeted sulfur treatment.

In less than two weeks, the redness faded, active breakouts calmed, and she noticed her skin feeling less tight and reactive. The serum helped us transition into a more active phase of treatment—without compromising comfort.

Final Thoughts

Inflamed acne requires a gentler approach than most people think. You can’t dry it out of existence—you have to work with your skin, not against it. Anfisa An-Dew gives my clients a way to hydrate, soothe, and strengthen their skin while still moving toward clarity.

If you’re dealing with breakouts that feel red, irritated, or just won’t settle down, I’d love to help. You can book an in-person consultation at my NYC clinic or set up a virtual session from anywhere.

Book your appointment here—we’ll build a custom plan to get your skin back to feeling clear, strong, and balanced.