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Article: Targeting Melasma with Retinaldehyde & Niacinamide

Face Reality

Targeting Melasma with Retinaldehyde & Niacinamide

Melasma is a form of hyperpigmentation triggered by multiple factors—usually hormones, heat, and sun exposure. Unlike post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which is caused by trauma or inflammation, melasma is deeper in the skin and often chronic.

Common triggers include:

  • Hormonal changes (e.g., birth control, pregnancy, menopause)

  • UV exposure

  • Heat and visible light

  • Genetics

  • Some medications

Melasma often shows up as symmetric brown or grayish patches, usually on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, and jawline. It’s more common in skin of color and can be frustrating to manage.


Daily Habits That Help Prevent Melasma Worsening

Managing melasma takes consistency and patience. In my clinic, I always educate clients on:

  • Daily mineral SPF (zinc or titanium dioxide) with reapplication

  • Avoiding heat—from saunas, hot yoga, and even hot showers

  • Wearing hats and sunglasses outdoors

  • Using pigment inhibitors year-round (not just summer)

  • Avoiding fragranced or irritating products that may inflame the skin


Why I Use Face Reality Retinal B3 Serum for Melasma-Prone Skin

While no topical product can cure melasma, consistent use of targeted ingredients can help fade discoloration and keep it from getting worse. This serum checks the boxes for my melasma clients looking for long-term results.

Key Brightening and Strengthening Ingredients

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

  • Brightens uneven tone

  • Helps reduce pigment transfer within the skin

  • Strengthens the barrier and reduces sensitivity

Retinaldehyde (Retinal)

  • A stabilized, less irritating form of Vitamin A

  • Supports cell turnover to help lift pigment over time

  • Stimulates collagen and elasticity

Glycolic Acid

  • Gently exfoliates to improve texture and pigment distribution

  • Helps the skin absorb other actives more effectively

Barrier-Supporting and Antioxidant Blend

  • Cloudberry Seed Oil: Antioxidant-rich to reduce oxidative stress

  • Saccharide Isomerate & Glycerin: Hydrate and protect against transepidermal water loss

  • Panthenol & Sclerotium Gum: Soothe and comfort the skin

This blend makes the serum powerful enough to support melasma-prone skin but buffered enough to be tolerated consistently.


How to Use This Serum in a Melasma Routine

In clinic, I usually recommend:

  1. PM only use to start (every 2–3 nights)

  2. Apply a pea-sized amount after cleanser and hydrating mist/serum

  3. Follow with a nourishing moisturizer

  4. Use SPF every single morning—no exceptions

After 2–4 weeks, most clients can move to every other night. For anyone using prescription pigment inhibitors or undergoing treatments like microneedling, I adjust timing accordingly.


A Gentle Routine for Melasma Management

  • Cleanser: Cream or gentle gel (no actives)

  • Hydrating Serum: Beta-glucan or hyaluronic acid

  • Face Reality Retinal B3 Serum: Nighttime only

  • Moisturizer: Ceramide-based, fragrance-free

  • SPF: Every morning (zinc-based)

Optional AM Add-On: Niacinamide serum or antioxidant serum (like Vitamin C alternative if skin tolerates)


When to Expect Results

Melasma treatment is a marathon, not a sprint. Clients usually notice some softening of pigment within 6–8 weeks, but consistent results show up around the 3–6 month mark—especially when paired with SPF, pigment inhibitors, and supportive in-clinic treatments.

Patience and protection are everything.


Want Help Building a Routine for Melasma?

Melasma requires a multi-layered approach—and what works for one person may not work for another. If you’re ready to get clarity on how to approach your melasma (or other pigment concerns), I’d love to help.

Book a consultation and let’s build a skincare strategy that works with your skin, your lifestyle, and your goals.

Or try Face Reality Retinal B3 Serum today to start supporting your skin with clinically backed ingredients that work gently and consistently.

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