When most people think of acne, they think "dry it out." But inflamed acne doesn’t respond well to stripping cleansers. In fact, over-cleansing or using harsh surfactants can increase redness, damage the skin barrier, and make breakouts worse.

In my clinic, I see a lot of clients with angry, red breakouts who have been using benzoyl peroxide washes, foaming cleansers, and exfoliating scrubs twice a day. Their skin is tight, shiny, and inflamed—and often not improving.

That’s where the Epicutis Oil Cleanser comes in.


Why Oil Cleansing Can Help Acne

Yes, oil. Hear me out. Oil cleansing works by dissolving excess sebum and impurities without disrupting the lipid barrier. The right oils—non-comedogenic, anti-inflammatory, and barrier-supportive—can actually help balance oily skin and reduce breakouts.

The Epicutis Oil Cleanser is different because it uses a combination of high-performance oils that nourish the skin while calming inflammation.


Key Ingredients That Calm and Clear

1. Hyvia (Biotech Chia Seed Oil)

This isn’t just your average chia seed oil. Hyvia is a biotech-enhanced version designed to penetrate deeper and perform better. It hydrates without clogging, strengthens the skin barrier, and reduces inflammation at the cellular level. For acne-prone skin that’s inflamed and reactive, this ingredient is a powerhouse.

2. Hinoki Wood Oil

Sourced from the Japanese cypress tree, this oil is known for its antimicrobial and calming properties. I use it to help soothe skin that’s hot, red, or flaring. Hinoki oil can also reduce the bacterial load on the skin without the harshness of traditional antibacterial ingredients.

3. Sunflower Seed Oil

One of my favorite carrier oils for acne-prone clients. It’s rich in linoleic acid (which many acneic skins are deficient in), non-comedogenic, and excellent at supporting the lipid barrier. It also helps reduce trans-epidermal water loss, which keeps skin calm and hydrated.


How I Use This Cleanser in the Clinic

In my treatment room, I use the Epicutis Oil Cleanser as the first cleanse for almost all of my acne clients. It removes makeup, SPF, and excess oil without stripping the skin.

For inflamed acne, I recommend using it:

  • AM and PM as the sole cleanser if the skin is reactive

  • As a first cleanse in a double cleanse routine if wearing heavy makeup or sunscreen

  • Before treatments to prep and soften the skin without triggering irritation


Common Causes of Inflamed Acne

Many of my clients dealing with inflamed acne are experiencing one or more of these triggers:

  • Overuse of drying or sensitizing products (like exfoliants or acne meds)

  • Compromised barrier from cold weather, travel, or sun exposure

  • Hormonal shifts causing inflammation

  • Internal stress or dietary triggers

In these cases, rebuilding the barrier and reducing inflammation is step one—and that starts with a cleanser that supports, not strips.


Tips for Using the Epicutis Oil Cleanser at Home

  1. Massage 2-3 pumps onto dry skin for 30-60 seconds.

  2. Gently remove with a soft damp cloth or rinse with lukewarm water.

  3. Follow with a barrier-supportive mist or serum, like the Lipid Serum or HydrobioMist.

  4. Avoid pairing with foaming cleansers or active exfoliants when skin is inflamed.

Pro tip: Use as a morning cleanse for acne clients on a strong nighttime routine (like retinoids or benzoyl peroxide) to avoid over-cleansing.


Final Thoughts

Cleansing shouldn’t hurt. If your cleanser leaves your skin red, tight, or stinging, it’s time to switch. The Epicutis Oil Cleanser is one of the most calming and barrier-friendly ways to support inflamed, acne-prone skin.

In my clinic, it’s helped countless clients transition from over-stripped and sensitized to balanced, calm, and clear. Acne isn’t just about killing bacteria—it’s about restoring harmony to the skin.

If you’re not sure where to begin with acne care, let’s build a plan together. Book an in-person or virtual session and get a customized routine that helps your skin heal.

Book your consultation and let’s calm the breakouts from the very first step.

Latest Stories

View all

  • by Laziza Kodirova

Why Peptides are Essential for Firmer Undereye Skin at Any Age

Firmness loss around the eyes is one of the earliest and most frustrating signs of aging. At my NYC clinic, I guide clients through targeted routines that support collagen, reduce puffiness, and bring back bounce to the delicate under-eye skin. One of the best tools I rely on? Alastin Restorative Eye Treatment.

Read more

  • by Laziza Kodirova

How Biome Balancing Helps Calm Inflamed Acne

Inflamed acne doesn’t just need clearing—it needs calming. At my NYC clinic, I help clients heal skin from the inside out using barrier-first, microbiome-focused strategies. One of my most trusted tools? SIV Biome Balancing Serum, a probiotic treatment that restores balance to stressed, acne-prone skin.

Read more