Azelaic Acid + PHA: My Favorite Duo for Uneven Skin Tone

If you’ve ever dealt with melasma, you know how stubborn and unpredictable it can be. In my NYC clinic, I see melasma in clients of all ages and skin types—often triggered by hormones, heat, or sun exposure. And while it can be frustrating to treat, there are ways to approach it that don’t involve aggressive peels or prescription creams that leave your skin red and sensitive.

One product I’ve had great success with is Anfisa Ân-Dew, a gentle, multitasking serum that supports the skin with powerful yet soothing ingredients. It’s especially helpful for clients who want to brighten uneven tone without pushing their skin too far.

Key Ingredients That Support Melasma-Prone Skin

Azelaic Acid (10%)
Azelaic acid is one of my go-to ingredients for melasma because it helps inhibit tyrosinase, the enzyme that drives melanin overproduction. It also reduces inflammation and helps fade existing pigmentation—without making skin more sensitive to the sun (a big plus). I recommend it regularly for clients dealing with both pigment and redness.

Hexylresorcinol
This ingredient works synergistically with azelaic acid to help reduce visible discoloration and even skin tone. It’s an excellent alternative to hydroquinone—offering brightening benefits without the same risk of irritation or rebound pigment.

Gluconolactone (PHA)
Unlike traditional AHAs, PHAs like gluconolactone gently exfoliate while also hydrating the skin. This supports better product absorption, improves texture, and helps fade melasma gradually without disrupting the barrier.

How I Recommend Using Anfisa Ân-Dew in a Melasma Routine

In the clinic, here’s how I typically guide clients using Anfisa Ân-Dew:

Apply 1–2 pumps on clean, dry skin before moisturizer, ideally both morning and night.
Always follow with SPF in the daytime—this is critical. Even the best pigment-correcting serum can’t work if you’re not protecting your skin from UV and heat.
Keep your routine simple while using this product. I usually recommend holding off on other exfoliants or brighteners for a few weeks to let this serum do its work without competition.
Pair with calming ingredients like niacinamide or ceramides if your skin feels reactive.

Real Results I’ve Seen in the Clinic

I had a client who had been cycling through various treatments for melasma—some too harsh, some not effective. We switched to a routine anchored around Anfisa Ân-Dew, and within six weeks, her skin tone was noticeably more even, with fewer flare-ups after sun exposure. Most importantly, she felt like her skin was no longer in a constant state of irritation.

Final Thoughts

Melasma is a long game. There’s no instant fix—but there are formulas that respect your skin while helping you make real progress. Anfisa Ân-Dew is one of those rare products that balances brightening with barrier care, which is exactly what melasma-prone skin needs.

If you’re navigating melasma or other pigmentation challenges and want a personalized skincare plan, I’d love to help. You can book an in-person session at my NYC clinic or schedule a virtual consultation from anywhere.

Book your appointment here—and let’s build a plan that supports your skin long term.